I Tried The #1 Restaurant in America

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Key takeaways

- Joshua Weissman tested North America's five highest-ranked restaurants across more than 100 courses and concluded that their exact rankings mattered little. Each offered a fundamentally different experience, and he believed any could deserve first place depending on the diner, the occasion, and the restaurant's performance that night.

- Montreal's Mon Lapin, ranked second, delivered Weissman's favorite cooking of the first four restaurants despite having no Michelin stars. The casual, reasonably priced neighborhood wine bar outperformed more elaborate establishments through exceptional ingredients, straightforward preparation, and dishes including raw Nova Scotia shrimp, scallop toast, and celery root.

- Chicago's three-Michelin-star Smyth served experimental dishes developed during dinner service. Its kitchen adjusted a translucent ravioli just before serving and introduced a new walnut-and-caviar preparation that both diners considered the best caviar dish they had ever eaten.

- Christopher Zucchero, whose Mr. Beef restaurant inspired The Bear, reversed his longstanding skepticism about fine dining after eating at Smyth. Initially uncomfortable with expensive tasting menus and unfamiliar seafood, he finished completely full, praised the meal's value, and apologized for years of criticizing restaurants like it.

- Third-ranked Pearl Morissette, operating from a remote Canadian farm, produced Weissman's favorite lobster dish of the first three restaurants. Yet a slowly cooked celery root that had been frozen and thawed initially surpassed even the lobster, demonstrating how exceptional technique could elevate an inexpensive vegetable above luxury seafood.

- Fifth-ranked Tanière delivered a two-Michelin-star experience inside interconnected underground chambers in Quebec. Its butter-poached scallops with caviar, cheese-and-morel preparation rated 10/10, and unexpected maple crème brûlée with caviar convinced Weissman that the lowest-ranked restaurant could plausibly compete for first place.

- New York's first-ranked Atomix distinguished itself by using fine dining to tell the story of Korean cuisine. Its gochujang-glazed lobster with kimchi rice, extraordinarily precise seafood preparations, personalized service, and carefully choreographed kitchen impressed Weissman and restaurateur Christian Petroni.

- The strongest meals repeatedly made familiar or unpopular ingredients more desirable than expensive delicacies. Mon Lapin's leeks and buckwheat cake, Pearl Morissette's celery root, Smyth's foie-gras rice pudding, and Tanière's cheese dish demonstrated that ingredient quality, technique, and enjoyment mattered more than luxury or elaborate presentation.

- The guests generally considered the elaborate meals worthwhile, although comparable bills were never disclosed. Zucchero discovered that tasting menus could be genuinely filling, while bodybuilder Will Tennyson concluded that Pearl Morissette justified its experience through memorable dishes and stories he would continue sharing long afterward.

All points

3707 words

- Joshua Weissman visited the five highest-ranked restaurants on a North American best-restaurants list to test whether they deserved their positions. He traveled across the United States and Canada, sampling more than 100 courses and assessing food quality, creativity, service, experience, and value.

- The restaurants were Tanière in fifth place, Smyth in fourth, Pearl Morissette in third, Mon Lapin in second, and Atomix in first. Their formats ranged from underground fine dining and a remote farm restaurant to a casual neighborhood wine bar and a restaurant inside a New York apartment building.

- Each restaurant was evaluated alongside a different guest. The guests included people unfamiliar with luxury dining, a fine-dining skeptic, a bodybuilder, a local chef, and an experienced restaurateur. Their reactions helped test whether the restaurants appealed beyond conventional fine-dining enthusiasts.

- The experiment challenged the assumption that Michelin stars determine which restaurants are best. The five included restaurants with two and three Michelin stars, while second-ranked Mon Lapin had none.

- No complete restaurant bills or directly comparable meal prices were disclosed. The participants judged value primarily through food quality, satisfaction, memorable experiences, and whether they would recommend the meal.

- Tanière, ranked fifth, operates in interconnected underground chambers in Quebec. Guests require a secret entry code, pass through tunnels, and move progressively deeper into the restaurant during dinner.

- Tanière was described as one of only two Canadian restaurants holding two Michelin stars at the time of filming. Its unusually theatrical setting established that the meal was designed as an experience beyond simply eating.

- Canadian food YouTuber Gurky joined Weissman at Tanière. Gurky had never experienced a restaurant of this kind, making him a useful test of whether highly sophisticated food could appeal to a newcomer.

- Tanière opened with unusual snacks before serving its signature dish, Noble. The dish combined scallops poached in butter, a rich butter sauce, and a substantial serving of premium caviar.

- Champagne played an important role in the Noble dish. Its sharp acidity and mineral character balanced the richness of the butter, scallops, and caviar. Weissman praised the use of simple but powerful flavors.

- A lobster course combined different parts of the animal with matsutake mushrooms. The plate featured lobster tail, a center-cut portion of claw, and greens. The combination produced exceptionally concentrated lobster and roasted-mushroom flavors.

- Tanière's cheese-and-mushroom dish received a perfect 10/10. It used Au Gré des Champs cheese, shaved morels, a crunchy tuile cylinder, and cheese foam. Gurky associated its flavors with childhood memories of walking through the woods with his father.

- The cheese dish convinced Weissman that Tanière belonged among North America's leading restaurants. Its combination of flavor, texture, and emotional familiarity made it one of the strongest courses of the evening.

- Tanière combined caviar with maple crème brûlée to surprising effect. Although initially skeptical, Weissman described the pairing as possibly his favorite use of caviar, surpassing more conventional combinations.

- A maple ice-cream sandwich evoked Quebec's traditional sugar shacks. The dessert combined a crunchy praline exterior, jelly, and maple ice cream. Gurky compared the experience to eating maple taffy.

- Gurky awarded Tanière's overall experience 10/10. He found the meal memorable, approachable, and consistently delicious despite its sophisticated techniques.

- Tanière's greatest strength was making extraordinary food immediately enjoyable. Weissman praised its exceptionally fresh local ingredients, precise preparation, and familiar flavors rather than novelty for its own sake.

- Tanière was considered worth visiting despite being ranked fifth. Its strongest courses raised an early question: whether the restaurant could reasonably deserve first place instead.

- Smyth in Chicago, ranked fourth, was the only three-Michelin-star restaurant among the five. The video described three-star status as exceptionally rare, claiming that only 14 American restaurants held that distinction at the time.

- Smyth's defining characteristic was culinary experimentation during actual dinner service. Rather than relying exclusively on established dishes, its kitchen sometimes developed and adjusted new creations immediately before serving them.

- Christopher Zucchero, associated with Chicago's Mr. Beef restaurant, joined Weissman at Smyth. Mr. Beef was identified as an inspiration for the television series The Bear. Zucchero was an experienced restaurateur but deeply skeptical of fine dining.

- Zucchero had regularly declined invitations to expensive restaurants. Although his wife and her friends enjoyed this style of dining, he considered it uncomfortable and outside his personal interests.

- Smyth's opening tart combined Hokkaido sea urchin with a decorative seaweed covering. Zucchero appreciated its artistic appearance and flavor, comparing the taste to an exceptionally good Ritz cracker, although he initially seemed unimpressed by the overall concept.

- A remarkably thin sandwich used crispy corn tuile, truffle, and pâté. Zucchero ordinarily avoided pâté but found the combination outstanding. The course demonstrated how careful preparation could make unfamiliar ingredients appealing.

- Smyth successfully served sea urchin to diners who did not particularly enjoy it. A later uni-heavy course was praised for being simultaneously rich, light, and refreshing.

- Weissman identified the transformation of disliked ingredients into desirable dishes as a mark of exceptional cooking. He argued that creative chefs can introduce diners to ingredients they might otherwise reject and make them enjoyable.

- A liquid-nitrogen-frozen lobster preparation was served with peanut milk. Its concentrated lobster flavor and Thai-like character impressed both diners. Weissman considered it among his best lobster bites of the previous year, while Zucchero said he had never tasted anything comparable.

- Smyth served lobster chawanmushi, a Japanese savory egg custard, using specially designed utensils. The restaurant matched spoons to its serving vessels. Weissman particularly admired how much flavor the cold preparation delivered.

- Zucchero's longstanding dislike of seafood began to weaken during the meal. He acknowledged eating every seafood course enthusiastically, despite normally avoiding such dishes.

- Smyth served a newly developed translucent ravioli containing pea broth and hoja santa. According to the discussion, the kitchen had adjusted the seasoning only about 30 seconds before sending it out.

- A second experimental dish combined brined young walnuts, a quenelle of cream, broth, and an unusually large serving of caviar. Both diners described it as the best caviar preparation they had experienced, awarding its use of caviar 10/10.

- Smyth's willingness to introduce untested dishes during service was viewed as operationally risky. Weissman considered it extraordinarily difficult to maintain three-star standards while improvising, particularly with cameras present.

- Smyth's experimental courses strengthened its claim to being among North America's best restaurants. Weissman began questioning whether the fourth-ranked establishment should actually occupy first place.

- Smyth's bread was another major highlight. Weissman considered it among the most beautiful breads he had seen, and Zucchero enthusiastically compared it with Parker House rolls.

- Smyth finished with warm rice pudding containing foie gras. Both diners initially disliked the idea because neither particularly enjoyed foie gras. The dessert nevertheless won them over, especially Zucchero, who was impressed by the warm pudding.

- Zucchero reversed his position on the value of fine dining. He entered believing the small portions and formal environment could not justify the experience, but finished exceptionally full and satisfied.

- Zucchero explicitly acknowledged that he had misjudged restaurants like Smyth. Having previously criticized fine dining from his own restaurant, he apologized and concluded that diners could indeed receive their money's worth.

- Pearl Morissette, ranked third, operated on a remote farm rather than in a conventional urban dining setting. Its rural location made the quality of its ingredients and the experience especially important to its standing.

- Bodybuilding YouTuber Will Tennyson joined Weissman at Pearl Morissette. Because his usual approach to eating emphasized calories and nutritional value, he provided a contrasting perspective on an elaborate tasting menu.

- Pearl Morissette's opening crab tart contained a concentrated gel made from crab flavor. The dish was praised for its appearance, crisp construction, and intensity of taste.

- Another opening snack resembled a miniature taquito but used a crisp preparation of carrot and roe. Its familiar appearance contrasted with the more sophisticated ingredients and execution.

- A geoduck clam dish demonstrated Pearl Morissette's unusual approach to local ingredients. The preparation tasted fresh and reminded the diners of Chinese egg custard despite containing no egg.

- Pearl Morissette emphasized ingredients sourced from its greenhouse and regional suppliers, including seafood. The proximity of food production to the kitchen was presented as central to its identity.

- Pearl Morissette's signature bread came from a three-kilogram loaf. Unlike the small portions associated with tasting menus, diners received a generous slice and were explicitly offered additional servings.

- The bread's freshness and locally made butter became major attractions. Tennyson rated the bread 9/10, while both diners were enthusiastic enough to consider eating substantially more of it.

- Pearl Morissette served the best lobster of the first three restaurants, according to Weissman. He considered it superior to the impressive lobster preparations at both Tanière and Smyth because it was perfectly cooked and seasoned without obscuring the lobster's natural flavor.

- A scallop course featured pearls made with lobster and green strawberry, accompanied by a savory broth. The diners praised the scallop's melting texture, bacon-like notes, marine flavors, and dashi-like umami.

- Pearl Morissette transformed celery root through a lengthy preparation involving freezing, thawing, and slow cooking. The vegetable developed aromas resembling a croissant rather than conventional celery root.

- The celery-root course briefly became the standout dish of the meal. It was ranked ahead of the lobster and opening tart, demonstrating that a relatively humble vegetable could outperform luxurious seafood.

- A halibut course challenged the celery root for the top position. Served with caviar and what the restaurant called an onion bubble bath, it combined perfectly cooked fish with smoked-onion flavor, brininess, and carefully controlled seasoning.

- The smoked-onion component was especially memorable. Weissman praised the way its smoky flavor developed with every bite without overwhelming the halibut.

- The diners became substantially full before dessert. During the meal, they speculated that their intake might already have reached roughly 1,350–2,000 calories, although no actual nutritional measurement was provided.

- Pearl Morissette introduced a cheese course immediately before dessert. Tennyson initially questioned why cheese was necessary at that stage, but changed his attitude after tasting the accompanying honey.

- The honey was considered exceptional. Tennyson suggested that ordinary honey would be difficult to enjoy afterward, and the combination was described as an especially luxurious transition between savory and sweet food.

- The first desserts, rosehip ice cream and apple tart, were pleasant but less impressive than the savory courses. This created concern that the meal might fail to end as memorably as it began.

- Pearl Morissette's final sweets included warm madeleines. Their crisp exteriors and soft interiors evoked banana bread, doughnuts, and cake, providing a lighter finish.

- Weissman wished Pearl Morissette's dessert sequence had ended more dramatically. The final courses were enjoyable, but some failed to match the exceptional lobster, celery root, and halibut.

- Tennyson nevertheless concluded that Pearl Morissette was worth the experience. He valued the lasting memories and stories generated by the meal, arguing that food's significance extends beyond calories or immediate consumption.

- Mon Lapin in Montreal, ranked second, was the most unconventional member of the top five. It had no Michelin stars, offered no tasting menu, charged comparatively reasonable prices, and operated as a relaxed neighborhood wine bar.

- Chef Laurent, a Montreal native and regular Mon Lapin customer, joined Weissman. Laurent believed the restaurant deserved first place and set out to demonstrate why its food, wine, and service were outstanding.

- Mon Lapin offered Michelin-level cooking without the formality normally associated with luxury restaurants. Laurent emphasized that guests could arrive in sweatpants on an ordinary Tuesday and still receive exceptional food.

- Mon Lapin began with a rabbit-shaped shortbread cookie filled with chicken-liver mousse. The crisp, lightly sweet, buttery exterior complemented the creamy, carefully seasoned liver filling.

- A simple clam dish used crushed Sun Gold tomatoes. Its appeal came from the balance of fresh tomatoes, natural sweetness, acidity, and the clams' briny flavor.

- A fried-ravioli-like preparation featured Swiss chard and a carefully made sauce. The diners compared it to spanakopita and praised its tenderness, straightforward seasoning, and lack of unnecessary complexity.

- Mon Lapin served leeks gently cooked in mussel brine, accompanied by house-made potato chips and aioli. Diners assembled each bite by placing leek on a chip and adding aioli.

- The leek dish illustrated Mon Lapin's emphasis on ingredient purity. Weissman was impressed that a simple vegetable, handled correctly, could become one of the most exciting courses of the meal.

- Mon Lapin acquired Nova Scotia shrimp that were normally cooked immediately aboard fishing boats. The restaurant served them raw, allowing the diners to experience their natural sweetness.

- Chef Laurent said he had never eaten those Nova Scotia shrimp raw in 37 years. Both diners found their sweetness extraordinary, with Weissman comparing it favorably to king crab and lobster.

- The shrimp were accompanied by fermented green blueberries prepared like capers. The unexpected ingredient impressed Weissman and demonstrated how the kitchen incorporated unusual preserved ingredients into otherwise simple dishes.

- Mon Lapin served scallop toast filled with scallop mousse and paired with rouille. The saffron-and-garlic sauce complemented a crisp exterior and creamy interior.

- Weissman considered the scallop toast superior to any shrimp toast he had previously eaten. He particularly admired its contrasting textures, concentrated marine flavor, and balance of seasoning.

- Mon Lapin's roasted celery root challenged Pearl Morissette's celebrated version of the vegetable. The dish combined celery root, buffalo mozzarella, sauce, and a generous topping of grated Périgord truffle.

- The celery root remained the dominant flavor despite the substantial truffle. Although the truffle dominated the aroma, the vegetable remained fresh, clear, and recognizable when eaten.

- Weissman identified ingredient selection as one of Mon Lapin's greatest strengths. He reasoned that carefully choosing different suppliers for vegetables, shellfish, and other ingredients helped explain the restaurant's unusually consistent quality.

- The supplier relationships were an inference rather than confirmed individual arrangements. Weissman suggested the kitchen likely had specialized suppliers for ingredients such as celery root, asparagus, tomatoes, and clams, describing such curation as an increasingly overlooked culinary skill.

- Mon Lapin delivered exceptional results with fewer dishes and less elaborate presentation. Weissman felt its relatively simple preparations could compete directly with the lengthy tasting menus at more formal establishments.

- A buckwheat cake became a standout dessert. Chef Laurent said he regularly ordered it, while Weissman praised its dense whole-grain character, crisp tuile, and rich, salty, buttery caramel.

- Mon Lapin's final dessert combined sorbet, meringue, berries, and brown butter. Despite its understated appearance, Weissman ranked it among the ten best desserts of his life.

- The brown-butter powder was identified as the dessert's key technical achievement. It supplied toasted dairy flavor without overwhelming the palate with cream.

- Weissman declared Mon Lapin the best meal and best cooking he had experienced among the first four restaurants. Its consistency, ingredient quality, creativity, and accessibility placed it ahead of Tanière, Smyth, and Pearl Morissette in his personal assessment.

- Mon Lapin impressed Weissman by displaying little of the ego he associated with elite restaurants. He found it unusual for such a highly ranked establishment to feel so relaxed and unpretentious.

- Chef Laurent argued that Montreal's restaurant talent had long been underrecognized. He believed the city's food scene was finally beginning to receive the attention it deserved.

- Mon Lapin entered the final comparison as a genuine contender for first place. Its performance raised the possibility that an accessible, reasonably priced neighborhood restaurant could outperform a more elaborate luxury establishment.

- Atomix, ranked first, operates inside an otherwise ordinary-looking New York City apartment building. Its understated exterior conceals a highly designed dining space and kitchen.

- Atomix presents diners with a display of the fresh ingredients selected for their meal before service begins. The presentation establishes the kitchen's attention to sourcing and makes the experience feel carefully choreographed from the outset.

- Chef Christian Petroni joined Weissman at Atomix. Petroni, a Food Network personality who had built and operated multiple restaurants, was invited to judge what truly separates a number-one restaurant from its competitors.

- Petroni argued that world-leading restaurants require almost obsessive dedication. He emphasized the need for consistently exceptional execution, precision, and purposeful movement throughout service.

- Atomix's operations were compared to theater. Petroni admired the coordination of the dining room and kitchen, observing that staff appeared to perform every action deliberately.

- Atomix opened with a raw scallop preparation resembling a miniature sushi roll. It combined scallop, rice, and seaweed, with each grain of rice retaining a distinct texture.

- The opening scallop course impressed both diners through exact preparation rather than unnecessary complexity. Petroni and Weissman found it so appealing that they wanted substantially more.

- A single-bite clam tart reinforced Atomix's emphasis on food people actively crave. Petroni argued that even highly artistic fine dining fails if it loses the ability to produce dishes diners want to eat again.

- Atomix allowed guests to select personalized chopsticks. This small element of choice contributed to the restaurant's individualized service experience.

- Drinks were served exceptionally cold throughout the meal. Weissman repeatedly noticed their temperature, treating it as another sign of the restaurant's precision.

- Atomix served monkfish liver, an ingredient Weissman considered unpredictable. Having previously experienced both excellent and unpleasant versions, he regarded the course as a significant test.

- Atomix's monkfish liver succeeded through its buttery texture and appealing flavor. Weissman considered it unusually craveable, overcoming his initial uncertainty.

- A hot-crab dish combined shredded kohlrabi, rich cream sauce, and a large serving of caviar. The texture of the vegetable, carefully controlled seasoning, and richness of the sauce created one of the most emotionally powerful dishes of the evening.

- Weissman became visibly emotional while eating the crab-and-kohlrabi course. He described being close to tears, suggesting the dish had exceeded ordinary technical admiration.

- The crab dish strengthened Atomix's claim to first place. Weissman questioned how frequently a restaurant could deliver courses of such exceptional quality, then acknowledged that Atomix was repeatedly doing so.

- Atomix served tempura-fried abalone in a sweet-and-sour sauce. The preparation appeared comparatively straightforward but demonstrated the restaurant's ability to combine familiar flavors with sophisticated technique.

- An additional accompaniment was reserved for the final bite of the abalone course. It received a perfect 10/10 because of its powerful combination of acidity, saltiness, sweetness, umami, and aromatics.

- Petroni identified the combination of originality and familiarity as essential to great cooking. Atomix's abalone course illustrated how unexpected ingredients and techniques could remain immediately understandable and enjoyable.

- A lobster course combined French-style richness with Korean flavors. The lobster was glazed with gochujang and served beside precisely cooked rice wrapped in tofu skin, with kimchi adding spice and acidity.

- The lobster course revealed Atomix's broader cultural purpose. Weissman recognized that the menu was using fine dining to communicate elements of Korean cuisine, rather than merely introducing Korean ingredients for novelty.

- Atomix's Korean storytelling operated through flavor combinations rather than lengthy explanations. Rich lobster and butter evoked classical European fine dining, while gochujang, kimchi, rice, and tofu skin connected the dish to Korean food traditions.

- Weissman related Atomix's approach to his own philosophy of cooking. He explained that he tries to help other people experience food as he does, and saw Atomix similarly introducing diners to Korean culture through exceptionally prepared dishes.

- Atomix deliberately reserved truffle for dessert rather than using it throughout the savory menu. This contrasted with some of the other restaurants, where truffle appeared in earlier courses.

- Atomix's dessert combined chocolate torte, thinly sliced black truffle, corn ice cream, and white-chocolate snow. The combination produced a dense, brownie-like chocolate texture alongside contrasting sweetness and earthy flavors.

- The black truffle contributed subtle earthy and mocha-like notes to the chocolate. The diners praised its restraint, noting that it complemented rather than overwhelmed the nostalgic character of the dessert.

- Atomix demonstrated that a restaurant could communicate cultural identity while meeting the highest standards of luxury dining. Its menu combined Korean culinary references, technical precision, premium ingredients, and coordinated service into a unified experience.

- The final assessment rejected the idea that the five restaurants could be ranked objectively by a single meal. Weissman concluded that each establishment was exceptional in a different way, making the precise order less important than the quality of the experiences.

- Mon Lapin emerged as Weissman's clearest personal favorite before Atomix, but the final comparison produced no definitive replacement ranking. Rather than declare a new overall winner, he maintained that each restaurant could plausibly deserve first place depending on the diner and occasion.

- The participants repeatedly valued memorable food over luxury ingredients alone. Cheese, bread, celery root, leeks, rice pudding, and buckwheat cake competed successfully with caviar, lobster, scallops, and truffles when prepared exceptionally well.

- The visits demonstrated several distinct routes to culinary excellence. Tanière excelled through local ingredients and immersive surroundings; Smyth through experimentation; Pearl Morissette through farm-driven cooking; Mon Lapin through simplicity and sourcing; and Atomix through precision and Korean culinary storytelling.

- The experiment changed at least one guest's established opinion of fine dining. Christopher Zucchero moved from dismissing expensive tasting menus to accepting that they could provide substantial food, enjoyment, and value.

- The experiment also showed that luxury dining need not depend on unfamiliar flavors or elaborate presentations. The most successful dishes often used recognizable ingredients and achieved exceptional results through seasoning, preparation, temperature, texture, and balance.

- Consistency mattered more than isolated spectacular courses. All five restaurants produced standout dishes, but Weissman's strongest praise repeatedly went to kitchens that sustained high-quality cooking throughout the meal.

- The final verdict was that placement on the list indicated exceptional restaurant quality, not a precise hierarchy of superiority. Weissman argued that a restaurant's performance, the diner's preferences, and the circumstances of a particular evening could all change which establishment felt like the best.

- Weissman's practical recommendation was to choose among these highly regarded restaurants according to personal preference rather than obsess over their numerical ranking. After experiencing all five, he concluded that each could deliver a number-one experience in its own way.